When we talk of oils we are almost always talking about carrier or base oils. This is the difference between carrier/base oils and essential oils. Source Carrier oils are normally vegetable oils derived from the fatty parts of a plant, such as the seed, kernels or nuts; essential oils usually come from non-fatty areas such as bark, roots, stems, leaves and the aromatic portions of the plant Potency Carrier oils are not very potent or concentrated, this is to say they will not normally burn or irritate your skin if applied directly. Essential oils, on the other hand, are very potent and should never be applied to skin directly as they can burn right through it or cause very severe skin irritation! They have to be diluted in a carrier oil. Lavender is one of the milder essential oils for skin but even then, direct application is NOT recommended. Quantity needed Carrier oils are used for a wide variety of functions for skin and hair so even for regular usage a large volume is needed. As essential oils are highly potent you only ever need a few drops at a time. This is why they are sold in such minute volumes. Packaging Carrier oils for consumer use are normally sold in clear, plastic bottles of 60 ml (2 0z ) at a minimum and frequently much larger volumes. Essential oils for consumer use are normally sold in 10 ml (0.35 oz) dark glass bottles. Properties Carrier oils don't easily degrade and evaporate. Essential oils degrade and evaporate rapidly when exposed to light; they also eat into plastic - this is why they are sold in glass bottles. That said, all oils should be kept in a cool dark place to make them last longer. Essential oils are thin oils with strong aromas whilst carrier oils are thicker (more oily) and have a much milder aroma when they have one at all. Top Carrier Oils For Hair vs. Top Essential Oils for Hair The top 4 essential oils oils are found in Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator. Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair. Ref: Carriel Oils (Wikipedia) What Are Carrier Oils (Aromaweb) Essential Oils (Wikipedia) There are two types of almond oil: sweet almond and bitter almond. Function Sweet almond oil is a base or carrier oil Bitter almond oil is an essential oil Origins Sweet almond oil comes from the sweet almond tree, prunus dulcis, var. amygdalus, this is the tree that produces the commercial variety of almonds that we eat. Its flowers are usually white. Bitter almond comes from the almond tree, prunus dulcis, var. amara. Its flowers are normally pink. Shape Bitter almonds are slightly broader and shorter than sweet almonds, and they contain only about 50% of the carrier/fixed oil that is found in sweet almonds. Usage Sweet almond oil is one of the top oils for hair (and skin); it is rich in protein, vitamins and mineral oils and therefore is considered nourishing and revitalising. Unlike the essential oils lavender, rosemary, thyme and cedarwood which are known to stimulate hair growth and are all found in Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator, bitter almond does not have any aromatherapy benefits at all. It simply exists as a fragrance essential oil. How to Tell if You Are Buying Sweet Almond Oil or Bitter Almond Oil? If the bottle just says "Almond Oil" you can sometimes tell which of the two it is using the following indicators: As an indication only, carrier oils are not potent and are used for a wide variety of functions so they normally come in plastic, larger bottles of 60 ml (2 0z ) at the very smallest. Essential oils are highly potent so you only ever need a few drops at a time. They degrade and evaporate rapidly when exposed to light plus they eat into plastic so they're normally sold in 10 ml (0.35 oz) dark glass bottles. With the above said, however, I would not buy a bottle that just says "Almond oil" because it may suggest a poor quality producer who doesn't even know the difference between the two. For your hair you want "Sweet Almond Oil" so to avoid confusion don't bother buying a bottle that doesn't say "sweet" on it! You might also like: Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair. Reference:
This post is dedicated to Dorothy Martin, a big supporter of Neno Natural. Thanks for the support! There are three main ways to use Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator (HGS): 1. Massage it into your scalp as often as you remember, the more often the better This is the original way in which I used the Hair Growth Stimulator. My hair had completely fallen out due to relaxers and braiding etc. I decided to go natural and at the same time I committed to coming up with a personal blend of oils and essential oils that would help my hair grow. Neno Natural's HGS was the result. The best way to use the oil for massage is to spray a little oil onto your finger tips, then massage the scalp gently for 5 to 7 minutes. After you're done massaging wear a shower cap over your head to generate some heat. Heat helps with the absorption of essential oils. Don't use Neno Natural's HGS on kids under 5 years of age, they don't need it. For kids aged 5 to 13 years old mix 2 parts growth stimulator to one part any other vegetable carrier oil to make it more dilute. Don't worry if you forget to do this you won't cause any harm, I just prefer to be extra cautious with children. 2. Use it to seal in moisture After you've moisturised your hair with water and a leave-in conditioner you can apply Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator as the oil for sealing in that moisture. If you use the LOC method the Hair Growth Stimulator comes after the liquid; if you use the LCO method the Hair Growth Stimulator is applied following the liquid and a cream, e.g. a shea butter. 3. Use it as a conditioner! I didn't even know this was possible. However, I went away on holiday and took a Shea Moisture conditioner before I'd ever tried it. My hair hated it. As I was away for two weeks with no access to natural hair products I went online to find an alternative. I found a conditioning formula that included most of the ingredients in Neno Natural's HGS so I just used that. To use the oil as a conditioner wash hair thoroughly, then rub two or three tablespoons equivalent into your hair (depending on hair length and thickness). Cover hair in a shower cap, blow dry the surface of the cap for a minute then trap the heat using a thick beanie hat or a towel. Rinse and style after 15 minutes. You can do this if you want a mid-week co-wash. It's quick, simple and convenient but it cannot replace your weekly deep condition. Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator can be used on both natural and relaxed hair. It is an all--natural product; the gorgeous smell comes from the essential oils and not from anything synthetic. You can it buy here. Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.
Polar oils are oils that have molecules that can migrate into a hair fibre. They are attracted into the hair shaft by the protein keratin found inside the cortex.
Polar oils are effective for sealing in moisture but only for a limited time. Over time, polar oils migrate into the hair fibre so the seal is removed. On the other hand non-polar oils form a complete barrier and don't allow moisture into or out of the hair fibre. This may sound like a fabulous feature but it isn't because hair natural dries anyway. Once the hair dries a non-polar oil would make it almost impossible to re-moisturise the hair.
Polar oils offer you flexibility because whilst they can seal hair effectively they can also be rinsed off easily.
If you follow a no-poo regime or use weaker, sulfate free shampoos then you'll have no problems washing polar oils off. Petrolatums and mineral oils need the strength of a sulfate-containing shampoo to be washed off and they need to be washed off to re-moisturise hair again. You might also like: What Are Polar Oils? How Do They Protect Natural Hair from Hygral Fatigue? Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.
First, what is hygral fatigue?
When hair is wet, it absorbs water and swells. As it dries it releases water and shrivels. The shrinking and swelling can lead to hair damage called hygral fatigue. What is polarity? Water atoms are polar. This means that the atoms on one end have a negative charge whilst the atoms on the other end have a positive charge. Polar and non-polar atoms do not mix. Generally, oils are non-polar but some oils have polar regions on them. This polarity gives them benefits to natural hair that non-polar oils do not have. Polarity is relative - some oils have more polarity than others.
One of a polar oil's key features is that it can penetrate the hair fibre. The oil is attracted by the protein keratin inside the hair shaft.
When a polar oil makes its way into the hair fibre it reinforces it from inside and strengthens the structure. The higher the concentration of saturated fatty acids and monounsaturated fatty acids the better the ability of the oil to penetrate hair. According to the Science of Black Hair, researchers have discovered that using polar oils such as coconut oil as a pre-shampoo treatment can protect the fibre against hygral fatigue. Coconut oil and other polar oils prevents hair damage from hygral fatigue by reducing the extent to which the hair swells. However, if you choose to pre-poo, make sure to do so with a polar oil. Using a non-polar oil will make it very tough to moisturise your hair.
Following our mega oil summary a couple of people have asked for good oil combinations to get growth and moisture. Here are three blends you'll want to adopt:
1. Neno Natural's Growth Stimulating Blend Mix a teaspoon of jojoba oil, argan oil plus coconut oil and massage into the scalp. To boost the impact add 2 or 3 drops of the following essential oils: cedarwood, lavender, rosemary and thyme. 2. Neno Natural's Breakage Minimising Pre-poo Treatment Mix a tablespoon of coconut oil and avocado oil. Rub onto hair then cover in a showercap for 15 to 30 minutes. You can then detangle your hair with water and a bit of conditioner or your regular detangling cream. Once the hair is detangled follow your usual wash routine. 3. Neno Natural's Moisture Retaining Blend Whether you use the LOC or LCO method to moisturise your hair, this oil blend will help you retain moisture better. Use it at the usual point in your moisturising routine. Mix 1 teaspoon of sweet almond oil and castor oil then work through hair. If you have very thick hair you can use a tablespoon of each oil. By the way, for growth stimulation you can just buy Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator and massage that into the scalp.
You can undertake the castor oil challenge at any time you choose; it's not some historical undertaking whose time has passed.
What's the objective of the castor oil challenge? To improve hair growth Which hair types can undertake the challenge? Any and all hair types How long does the challenge last? 3 months What products do you need for the castor oil challenge? Just castor oil, your fingers and a notebook to document the changes. What do you do with the castor oil? Massage it into your scalp gently for 7 to 12 minutes. How often do you have to massage the oil into your scalp? At least 3 times a week Can the castor oil challenge be improved? I think so. For every ounce, 28 ml, of castor oil add 3 drops of the following essential oils: cedarwood, lavender, rosemary and thyme. These are all documented as improving hair health and growth. I don't like castor oil, are there any other oils I can use for my scalp to get the same effect? Yes. Specifically for massaging the scalp I recommend jojoba, avocado oil and argan oil as the best oils for scalp massage. Where can you get castor oil? In a health food store or on Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk. Is there anything else I should know? Yes. Your hair has a maximum rate at which it can grow as determined by genetics. Massaging the scalp just ensures your hair is growing at the maximum rate that is possible for you. Your results will not necessarily match anyone else's results. If you've tried the castor oil challenge please let us know how it went with a comment...
Trying to decide on an oil? Which oil you go for should depend on what you want to use it for!
For the scalp, e.g. if your scalp is dry You need something that is light, so it doesn't clog up the pores and very rich in Vitamin E to nourish the scalp :
Pre-shampoo treatment You need an oil whose fatty acids can penetrate the hair fibre. Why? According to the Science of Black Hair, hair swells when it is wet and shrinks when it is dry. This constant swelling and shrinking is called hygral fatigue; overtime it weakens the hair fibre thereby making it more vulnerable to breakage. You can avoid hygral fatigue by applying an oil that is high in saturated fatty acids and/or monounsaturated fatty acids before the shampoo. These types of fatty acids can penetrate the hair shaft so that when you wash the hair, the hair fibre doesn't swell as much and is therefore less prone to weakening from hygral fatigue. The best oils (from the one with the highest content of saturated fats and/or monounsaturates):
Sealing in moisture
Polyunsaturated fatty acids are too large to penetrate hair's cuticle layer. Most of them bind to the outside of hair and stop moisture from escaping. Whilst the "pre-shampoo oils" mostly work by strengthening hair from the inside, oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids operate from outside the cuticle layer of hair.
The best oils (from the one with the highest content of polyunsaturated fatty acids are): Castor oil (89%) Flaxseed oil (73%) Grapeseed oil (70%) Shelf-life Note that most oils should keep well for a year plus except flaxseed oil whose shelf life is only 6 months! You can prolong the life of flaxseed oil by keeping it in the fridge. Some oils have an almost indefinite shelf life, e.g. castor oil and jojoba. How about this whole acid/alkaline thing? For the most part, oils are weakly acidic. However, even if the oil is weakly alkaline it doesn't mean it will cause you any harm. Try it and decide whether or not your hair agrees with it. But ... oils make my hair dry! If you think an oil is drying your hair out it could mean you're using it wrongly. Remember oils are NOT moisturisers. Oil and water repel each other so to get the benefit of an oil use a proper moisturiser first, e.g. leave-in conditioner and oil should follow after that. You might also like: The supersonic benefits of argan oil on natural black hair 6 fabulous benefits of avocado oil on natural hair 8 Benefits of Castor oil for natural hair & a warning! 6 top benefits of coconut oil - a MUST for every natural hair regimen! 8 great benefits of jojoba oil on natural hair 5 benefits of sweet almond oil on natural hair Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair. References: Investigation of Penetration Abilities of Various Oils; Acid/alkaline chart (Natural Health Center), LookChem; NaturallyThinking; Balance pH diet; GardenOfWisdom; Sweet almonds (Prunus dulcis) are native to the Middle East and South Asia. I have been using sweet almond oil for massage for a long time. It works well for that so I was pleasantly surprised that I could also use it for my hair. What are the benefits of sweet almond oil as applied to hair? [i] 1. The primary benefit of sweet almond oil is as a sealant and hair protector. 2. Saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids form 71% of the fatty acids found in sweet almond oil so it does have a good ability to penetrate the hair shaft and moisturise hair from the inside. However, note that its relatively higher density compared to other vegetable oils makes it less suitable for regular scalp application although it would work well as a moisturiser especially in a pre-shampoo treatment. [Master oil chart coming] 3. It makes hair bright, shiny and silky looking. As it is denser than other vegetable oils commonly used for hair, ancient Egyptians routinely combined it with castor oil. This blend is complementary as, in turn, sweet almond oil improves the smell and texture of castor oil. 4. Apply to dry or damaged hair to reawaken the weak ends. If you have weakening/dry ends mix a sweet almond oil and castor oil base with rosemary essential oil and rub into your ends daily/regularly. 5. After you’ve finished your washing, conditioning and moisturising routine apply to protect hair during heat styling, e.g. blow drying. Chemical composition: Sweet almond oil is rich in vitamins A (for maintaining healthy cell membranes), B1, B6 (shown to promote hair growth) and E (rich in antioxidants that promote blood and hence nutrient circulation to the scalp). Again, I would personally only rub sweet almond oil into my scalp the day before a wash. What is so “sweet” about sweet almond oil? There are two types of almonds, bitter and sweet; no prizes for guessing which type sweet almond oil comes from. You might also like: THE best oil for natural hair. A mega summary! The supersonic benefits of argan oil on natural black hair 6 fabulous benefits of avocado oil on natural hair 8 Benefits of Castor oil for natural hair & a warning! 6 top benefits of coconut oil - a MUST for every natural hair regimen! 8 great benefits of jojoba oil on natural hair Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair. References: [i] Sweet almond oil and hair growth (livestrong.com); Sweet Almond Oil for Hair (ehow.com)
Did you know that castor is latin for “beaver” and that castor oil is so called because it was extracted from beavers’ groins before it was discovered in plants? No? Neither did I until recently.
Following the castor oil challenge that started in the U.S. castor oil has grown in popularity amongst the natural hair community. Of all oils castor oil has one of the highest proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids. They form 89% of its fatty acid content.
Castor oil has many medicinal and industrial uses but its benefits to hair can be summarised as follows:[i]
1. Locks in hair moisture. This is the best oil for locking in moisture externally due to the large proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids. For the most part, castor oil’s fatty acids cannot penetrate the hair follicle, they latch onto the outside of the hair fibre and stop any moisture escaping. This feature means that castor oil needs to be applied at the end of the moisturising process to lock in the moisture. If you use castor oil and find that it’s “making your dry” it is very likely that you are using the castor oil at the wrong point into your hair regimen process. If you apply it before washing or before you have applied a proper moisturiser it will prevent water molecules (the main source of moisture) from getting into the hair fibre. 2. Attracts moisture from the environment. Castor oil is a humectant. It literally attracts water molecules from air further moisturising your hair. 3. It softens hair as a result of locking in moisture and due to a wealth of omega-9 fatty acids which nourish the hair. 4. It adds lustre and shine to hair. 5. It helps reduce frizz. 6. It can help to reduce premature greying of hair. 7. Other’s argue that castor oil helps to reduce thinness and balding but there is no scientific research to support this unlike for the ingredients that go into Neno Natural’s Hair Growth Stimulator. 8. Regular application of castor oil is reported to promote hair growth (personally, I think it acts more to help with retention, i.e. reduce breakage) The above said, note that castor oil would not be my first choice for moisturising my scalp, especially not neat, because it is not as light as jojoba, argan oil and coconut oil. It’s also not as rich as the above in say vitamin E (argan oil has a very high vitamin E content) and also doesn’t have a sebum-like structure like jojoba (sebum is the oil that the scalp naturally produces to moisturise itself). For maximum benefit mix castor oil with another oil, e.g. jojoba, argan, castor or avocado oil. Refined or unrefined castor oil? Unrefined castor oil is poisonous! You need the refined version. You might also like: THE best oil for natural hair. A mega summary! The supersonic benefits of argan oil on natural black hair 6 fabulous benefits of avocado oil on natural hair 6 top benefits of coconut oil - a MUST for every natural hair regimen! 8 great benefits of jojoba oil on natural hair 5 benefits of sweet almond oil on natural hair Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair. References [i] Castor oil (wikipedia); Castor oil (naturalnews.com); What are the benefits of using castor oil on hair (livestrong); Castor oil's many uses for beautiful skin and hair (skinverse); |
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By Heather Katsonga-Woodward
I was a natural hair blogger and mixtress living between London & Chicago from 2012 to 2017. I always thought I was 4C but some say 4B; images below - you decide! Heather xx Categories
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